Pond Doc's Treatment Suggestion Page for Koi & Goldfish Health Problems

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The Pond Doc specializes in Koi and Goldfish Health. He's recognized internationally for his expertise. KoiCarp Magazine of the U.K. chose our website as one of the top 10 websites for koi health!

Bacterial Gill Disease (BGD)
Since BGD is initiated by poor water quality, parasites and/or overcrowded conditions you must first correct the problem that's causing it. #1 - Test the water for pH, Ammonia and Nitrites. A master test kit is available that will cover all these very necessary tests. If you find any readings of ammonia or nitrites, fix the problem! If you pH is not between 7.0 and 8.0 and/or is not stable, correct it and stabilize it using pH Stabilizer. #2 - If the water tests are fine then look for signs of parasites. If parasites are suspected then it's most likely Flukes and, to be on the safe side, I would treat the pond for Flukes using Anti-Fluke or Fluke Tabs and Perform a Salt Treatment at the same time. #3 - Treat the disease itself with Chloramine T. NEVER USE MORE THAN ONE KIND OF TREATMENT AT THE SAME TIME - THIS WILL RESULT IN FISH DEATH. The only exception would be the salt.

Bacterial Infections
When treating infections with antibiotics, whether they are ulcers or internal infections, the water temperature should be over 64 degrees or your antibiotic treatments will not work. Internal infections are best treated by feeding your fish a diet of triple antibiotic food for 2 weeks then go back to their normal diet. You can also inject the fish with antibiotics or have a vet do it. Performing a salt treatment along with the other is also an excellent idea! If the infection is external in the form of an ulcer, mouth rot or fin rot, follow the treatment instructions for the specific problem.

Toxic Water
If you suspect that anything toxic has been added to your water immediately do a major (80%) water change and don't forget to de-chlorinate the new water added. Hold some of the affected water aside for testing or test your water right away for ammonia, nitrite and pH. Any reading at all of ammonia or nitrites is not to be taken lightly. Beef up your biological filtration because the problem will return within a day or two and keep returning until the nitrifying cycle is in place. Find more information about ammonia, nitrites and pH by reading this article: "Water Parameters - Why those tests are important".

Viral Infections / Virus
Viruses are the deadliest and scariest of all fish afflictions because they kill quick and complete and often before you even suspect a problem. A new fish can be a carrier and clean out your entire population of fish. The only cure is prevention. Quarantine all new fish in a heated environment for at least 2 weeks before introducing them into your pond. Know the reputation of your fish dealer.

Aeration Problems
Fish breathe dissolved oxygen in the water through their gills. If water contains inadequate amounts of dissolved oxygen the fish simply smother. Many water treatments such as potassium permanganate and AlgaeFix use oxygen when they work. "Oxygenating plants" give off oxygen during the day but then take it all back at night and on overcast days. Add aeration whenever treating your pond. Add long term aeration (such as air pump, waterfalls, fountains) for ponds that are very still.

Anchor Worm
This one's easy. Treat the whole pond with Anchors Away. It is formulated especially for anchor worm.

Ulcer Disease
Since ulcer disease is often a secondary infection to parasitic infestation you must first determine the cause of the disease and get rid of what caused it before you can get rid of the disease. If you added any new fish within the past 30 days or so, it's almost certain that you have parasites causing them and it would be advisable to treat the whole pond for parasites. We have a Parasite Pak that's perfect for cleaning up the pond of any parasites that may be lurking.

If ulcers appear on female fish after spawning or as a result of a boo-boo, it's a safe bet that parasites are not the culprit so I wouldn't waste the time and effort to treat for parasites. Use your common sense and knowledge of your particular pond and fish to rule out parasitic infestation as the cause of your ulcers.

Now, let's treat the ulcers! It's best to isolate all infected fish in a hospital tank so that you can get to them without stressing them each time you need to treat them. Keep in mind that you will need to closely monitor the water quality of your holding tank. Poor water quality can kill so regular water changes may be in order.

There are several treatment methods from which you can choose. I'll start with what we do to treat our own fish for ulcers. #1 - If the koi or goldfish is in pretty good physical condition you can dip them once a day in Tricide-Neo for several days. It comes in 2 sizes - 1 gallon and 5 gallon. Tricide-Neo, however, is a harsh treatment and can be too rough on a fish who is barely holding on or having gill problems. For those more delicate fish it's best to use Lil' Dabado Antibiotic Scrub. #2 - Feed Triple Antibiotic Food to the infected fish for no less than 2 weeks and no more than 3 while they are in the hospital tank and after they have been returned to the pond. It's not a bad idea to feed all the fish this food to prevent outbreaks of ulcers during this time. The antibiotic food helps prevent the bacterial infection from going internal to the fish's organs. Lil' Dabado comes also in a Double Whammy Pack that includes a lb. of the Triple Antibiotic Food. #3 - For added insurance you may want to reduce the amount of anaerobic bacteria present in the pond. Use Anti-Bacteria and treat the whole pond. DO NOT COMBINE Anti-Bacteria with any other treatments. ALSO - It will kill the good nitrifying bacteria in your biological filter as well as the bad so BY PASS your filtration while you are treating the pond with this or any other bacteria-killing agents.

Alternative Treatment Methods: You can inject your fish with antibiotics or have a vet do it. Injections are definitely more stressful than other methods. You could use some of the other marketed "cures" for ulcers like Melafix but we find that these work as tonics more than cures and do not do the same great job as what we use. If fungus has set in on the ulcers you may want to treat with Anti-Fungus - but DO NOT combine the treatment with another one at the same time.

Dropsy (aka Pinecone Disease)
Internal Bacterial Infection
In advanced stages, after the body has swelled, eyes have bulged and/or scales are sticking out (like a pinecone) this disease is usually always fatal. It is an internal infection that has invaded one or more of the fish's organs. Injections and water treatments may be worth a try, however, don't expect recovery. If the fish is breaking out with massive ulcers the most humane treatment is to euphonize the fish. Dropsy is not contagious so if the fish is left in his home pond there should be no problems. Find more information on bacterial disease in our article, "Battle of the Bacteria".

If you suspect dropsy but it's not in the advanced stages, you may be able to treat and prevent the dropsy from worsening. Feed triple antibiotic food and treat with a medicated water treatment.

Egg Impaction
Internal Condition
If a female loaded with eggs does not spawn, her eggs are often absorbed back into her body. If they are not absorbed and she is unable to expel them she can become egg impacted. The eggs literally rot inside her. Place her with males in a heated environment and create areas where they can spawn. If that doesn't work professional veterinarian help is advised. This condition will weaken the female and eventually she will die. Swelling of the body above the "waist line" is a sign of dropsy, not egg impaction.

Fish Lice (Argulus)
Treat for Parasites
A pesty little parasite that salt won't kill. Treat as you would treat Flukes (see immediately below). Find more information on Argulus in our article, "Flash Dance - A Closer Look at Parasites".

Flukes
Treat for Parasites
If your fish are flashing heavily and salt has not stopped it then your fish may be infested with flukes. They attack the tender tissue of the gills and, by causing tiny holes in the fish where opportunistic bacteria can enter the fish's body, can be a major cause of bacterial infection. Find more information on Flukes in our article, "Flash Dance - A Closer Look at Parasites".

Fungus
Treat for Bacteria
Fungus is secondary to a bacterial infection and feeds off of dead tissue. The bacterial infection should be treated along with the fungus. Find more information on fungus and bacterial disease in our article, "Battle of the Bacterias".

Ich
Treat for Parasites
One of the most common parasites. Ich looks like salt on the fins or small white dots on the skin of the fish in advanced cases. A very deadly parasite. We've found that it seems to be more deadly in goldfish than in koi. Find more information on Ich in our article, "Flash Dance - A Closer Look at Parasites".

Nitrite Poisoning
Water Quality
When ammonia is converted by nitrifying bacteria into nitrites it is still deadly to the fish. It stays in the blood system of the fish and turns the blood brown. An immediate 80% water change is in order but a salt treatment after the water change will help insure the fish are not effected by the poison in their system. This is a sign that the biological filtration is lacking Nitrobacter Bacteria, the healthy and necessary nitrifying bacteria responsible for the conversion of nitrites to harmless nitrates. Find more information about the nitrifying cycle in our article, "Mother Nature's Balancing Act - The Nitrifying Cycle".

pH Crash
Water Quality
pH is at its highest (most alkaline) in the afternoon and at its lowest (most acidic) in the morning. pH fluctuates some during the day but unstable pH (fluctuates more than half a point in 24 hours) can be a recipe for disaster. A pH Crash is when the pH suddenly drops down past 6.5 or 6.0. It's like a fish being dropped into a vat of acid the fish cannot adapt to the change or live in water so acidic for long. The best thing to do is to make an immediate water change then stabilize the pond water with a pH stabilizer to prevent it from happening again. The pH of water can also go the other way and be too alkaline. A pH of over 7.8 is to be of concern. The presence of cement in the pond will cause the pH to rise well over healthy readings. Find more information on the effects of pH by reading the following article, "Getting the Swing Out of pH".

Septicemia
Treat for Internal Bacteria Infection
Septicemia is an internal infection that is like an ulcer on the inside. It spreads throughout the body and, unlike Dropsy, does not confine itself to a particular organ. Spoiled foods inside the intestines of the fish can cause this disease. The fish's body is regulated by water temperatures. It is not able to digest foods when water temperatures are too cold and food left in the intestines will spoil. To prevent it from happening we do not feed our fish at all when the temperature of the water is less than 55 degrees. We will feed wheat-germ-based foods sparingly in water temperatures less than 64 degrees.

Swim Bladder Problems
Internal Condition
Fancy goldfish have rounded bodies that are more apt to incur swim bladder problems. Feed fancy goldfish sinking pellets to prevent them from sucking air when they eat. Also placing fish that flip over in cold water into a warmed environment has been an effective treatment. Once the fish spends most his time upside down the prognosis is dim for survival. Seek professional veterinarian treatment.

	Paracide Green
	Potassium Permanganate
	Salt Treatment (must be able to remove plants)

	Immediate First Aid 80% Water Change
	Salt Treatment
	Promote Growth of Nitrifying Bacteria

	Antibiotic Injections
	Feed Antibiotic Food